Spuds


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The Secret History of French Fries

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Few things get the mouth salivating like a plate of deliciously crispy French fries. Whether you’ve enjoyed salty, mayonnaise-covered fries from a ‘Patat’ stand in Holland, where the potato is revered almost as much as the Dutch royal family, or had a go at making them yourself, they’re a staple that both food snobs and ready-made fans can agree on.

But the history of the golden French fry is complicated. There have been rows over which nation invented them (it would be too obvious if they were French right?), wars that made them popular, and even a marketing campaign fronted by Marie Antoinette.

So here’s our whistle-stop tour of the secret history of French fries. We’ll take you from the discovery of the potato, right through to how the likes of McCain French fries became so popular today.

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A Different Benedict

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When I heard that Brooklyn’s legendary Junior’s restaurant was releasing new a cookbook, you know I was all up on this. I mean, this is the place that invented the “something different” sandwich: two giant potato latkes holding up a bevy of beef brisket.

That monstrosity/amazingness isn’t included in Junior’s Home Cooking, but they do have another spin for how to combine breakfast beef and carbs. The Junior’s “different benedict” offers up eggs and hollandaise over corned beef hash. Yes.

A Different Benedict

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Sizzling Skillet Hash

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With leisurely weekend brunches in mind we put together a breakfast hash recipe that features a favorite Greek pork and lamb sausage with a twist of orange and fennel, Loukaniko. We remember our yiayia showcasing this tangy, smokey sausage in many of her luncheon dishes. She would fry it up alongside a platter of feta, Kalamata olives and Greek bread for a mezze platter or add it to a pasta for a one-dish meal. If we were lucky, she often would slip us a piece from the sizzling skillet before the meal, and making sure we didn’t ruin our appetites.

We showcase the Loukaniko in a complex hash for weekend brunch company. For a burst of flavor and sweetness to balance the saltiness of the feta and Loukaniko, we add roasted sweet potatoes and roasted red peppers. We lay a perfectly fried egg on top that seeps into the plated medley.

Greek Hash with Loukaniko, Sweet Potatoes, Roasted Red Peppers and Feta Cheese

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Stewed Over Fall

Ahhh, fall. The crispness of the air as it begins to cool, the chill in your chest as you take that first brisk breath. The sting of the frost, the bite of the wind, the…the hell with that! This is exactly why I moved to L.A. Three-hundred-plus days of beach barbeques until the weather dips down into the 70s. Then of course, you’re forced to move inside. Ugh! I get goose bumps just thinking about it…

I grew up in the Midwest—northern Indiana to be exact—and I miss the cold Lake Michigan wind chill about as much as I miss acne. Ten-degree mornings and ice cold leather car seats? F that! If I can’t get a sunburn on Thanksgiving, I’m bummed! So pardon me Mr. Gore, while I release these fluorocarbons. Bring on the global warming, Woo Hoo!

But, we still like our fall food out here on the left coast, and when I feel it dip below the 80s, I like to bring out the soups and the chilies. So how about a little beef stew to get things crackin’? What I really like about the following recipe is how it magically changes from rank tasting to righteous during the long simmer. You’ll see. Try it and you won’t be disappointed.

Katt’s Bitchin’ Beef Stew

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The Endless Road Trip: Put Some Ink on It

These days, you don’t have to look far to find people serving their French fries with craziness like duck fat or rosemary salt or balsamic ketchup. Yes, the most plebeian of foods has gone gourmet. And not surprisingly, Portland wins this contest.

Foster Burger in SE Portland serves their perfectly-sized, crispy “black and white fries” with: died garlic, truffle oil, parmesan, and, for dipping..black squid ink aioli. Yes, these spuds are dipped in seafood spray. Brilliant. Ridiculous. Also, tasty.

Also on The Endless Road Trip: Portland
1. Porklandia
2. All That’s Euro is Not Trash
3. Salt and Straw
4. Blue for Breakfast

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