ES Local: Manhattan’s Top Chef Restaurants

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Yesterday I posed a burning question to the latest Top Chef winner, asking why Bravo, despite all the product placement, can’t give the show’s champs enough money to actually open their own restaurant. This year they upped the award from $100,000 to $125,000, but the winner admitted that’s only a fraction of what it would take to open a restaurant in a major market. Since most of the former chef-testants have yet to even drop that “sous” from their titles, let alone open their own places, we decided to take a look at the few Manhattan restaurants where former Top Chef-ers (winners and others) are actually helming the kitchen (whether they own the place or not).

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ES Local: Getting Gourmet Meals on the Cheap at New York Culinary Schools

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During the boom years, food obsessives like us grew accustomed to the occasional (or more than occassional) elaborate gourmet meal out, and we’re sure as hell not going to let this silly little recession thing slow us down. So we’re always on the lookout for fancy-pants meals at not-so-fancy prices.

At least in New York, some of the best deals can be found at restaurants attached to culinary academies, where you’ll get meals prepared by soon-to-be top chefs — complete with A-list ingredients, white tablecloths, and all the fancy trappings of a five-star restaurant — but at a fraction of the price, because everyone from the kitchen crew to the waitstaff are still in school. These aren’t exactly bargain basement meals, but considering the quality of what you’re getting, they’re some of the best deals around.

L’Ecole: The swanky restaurant at Soho’s French Culinary Institute offers three distinct deals: a three-course prix fixe lunch for $28, four courses at dinner for $42, or a two-plate brunch deal for $19.50. That may not sound super-cheap, but keep in mind you’ll be dining on sauteed sweetbreads, roasted duck confit, and Le Cirque-style creme brulee. 462 Broadway. (Stay nearby at the Soho Grand Hotel.)

National Gourmet Institute for Health & Culinary Arts: If you just gagged at that mention of sweetbreads, you might be more enticed by the Friday night dinners at this all-vegetarian cooking school. The student-chefs use seasonal, market-fresh ingredients in these three-course, $40 meals. The desserts, like poached pear and cranberry tart with almond pastry cream and truffle balls, are particularly enticing. 48 W. 21 St. (Stay nearby at the Gershwin Hotel.)

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ES Local: NYC Bars Where the Start of Winter Doesn’t Mean the End of Outdoor Drinking Season

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One of the great pleasures in exploring New York’s bar scene is finding those secret gardens and back patios that make summertime drinking infinitely more enjoyable. But just because it’s about ready to snow doesn’t mean it’s time for boozing hibernation — you just have to look a little harder. With the help of heaters, warm drinks and a little creativity, these six watering holes will have you drinking outdoors all the way ’til springtime.

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Endless Questions: The Next Iron Chef Contestants Jose Garces & Jehangir Mehta

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We’re in the home stretch in the competition to select The Next Iron Chef, and the finals will feature two East Coast chefs with backgrounds quite different from much of the people you typically see on Food Network. There is New York-based Jehangir Mehta, a native of Mumbai, India and Philadelphia’s Jose Garces, Ecuadorian by birth and a practitioner of a variety of Latin cuisines. He’s also the proud recipient of the official TVFF foodie man-crush, even if he doesn’t know it.  You can get caught up with the competition on the Food Network site and be sure to tune in this Sunday at 9 p.m. Eastern to see who brings home the title.

Endless Simmer had a chance to chat with Chefs Mehta and Garces about the Next Iron Chef experience:

ES: During the first season of Next Iron Chef, the contestants got tripped up a little bit with the fundamentals. Did you do any brushing up in preparation for this competition?

Mehta: I unfortunately have not seen a single episode, so I don’t know. I didn’t see anything of the first season, but even when I was there, I had asked a couple of people, “Does anyone have any tapes, or anything for me,” and I don’t think anyone did, so I never watched a single episode.

Garces: You know, I can answer at this point, there’s really not much you can do to prepare once you start the show or even beforehand. You really have to rely on years of experience, years of cooking, and hope that that’s enough to get you through. So, there was no preparation on my part.

ES: After the first couple of challenges was there any sense you could get from the judges of what they liked and what they didn’t like, and did you adjust your style or your output in any way?

Mehta: I did try to make things less sweet but somehow it didn’t work as much as I tried. I think you must always listen to the negativity that they might give you, but you must also look at the point of what they are saying they didn’t like about others, because you learn a lot from other people’s mistakes. I was just keeping my ears open to what is happening even when others were going down in terms of what they were told, what the judges liked, what they didn’t like. And it could be what they didn’t like of that dish – that doesn’t mean they didn’t like the whole idea of it. You have to just view things and take the best of what you need to do.

Garces: I found the judges to each have their own style and as Chef Mehta said, some may like things a certain way where others may not like things a certain way. I know that Jeffrey Steingarten was really particular about texture and doneness, so after a few battles you knew that he was going to look for both of those things. But overall, with so many different palates and so many different points of view, you really can’t change your style to fit all three, so I found that just going with my gut and what I do best served me well.

After the jump, find out how they think they compare with the current Iron Chefs and why – no matter who wins – this could be an offally good addition to the current roster.

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Putting My Best Foot Forward

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Earlier this month, I found myself navigating an incredibly packed room of hungry foodies at New York magazine’s New York Taste event, where hundreds of us alternately pushed in front of each other for a chance to taste the dozens of appetizer-size samples from New York’s trendiest eateries. Most of the dishes on hand were your usual suspects: Kobe beef sliders, high-end BBQ brisket, amped-up oysters, creative panna cottas and the like. But then I walked by the station for chef Ed Brown’s Eighty One and found something I hadn’t tried before.

“Crispy trotter with slow cooked egg?” offered one of the sous chefs, as she slid a tantalizingly yolk-topped plate my way.

I didn’t quite know what she was talking about, but her dish sure followed the ES mantra that anything fried and topped with an egg can’t be bad. I eagerly snatched the offering from her and quickly zeroed in with my spoon, asking almost as an afterthought, “so what is trotter?”

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ES Local: Midtown Momofuku Madness in NYC

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If you’ve been keeping up with the New York food blogerati over the past few days, then you know there’s been only one pressing recent world event. Clearly I’m not talking about water on the moon or health care passing the house, but Momofuku’s inevitable march into midtown. On Thursday, David Chang’s much, much, much talked about mini-chain soft opened Ma Peche, its first non-East Village location, inside the trendy Chambers Hotel. The Manhattan food world is basically treating it as a live-blog-worthy breaking news event. Here are a few of the first thoughts:

Midtown Lunch:

“The three terrine banh mi…is out of control good.”

Eater:

“I think it’s safe to say we have a new banh mi king in town”

Hotel Chatter:

“Even if you’re not into the rest of the food, you could order the cookie and a glass of milk and still have a smidgeon of the Momofuku experience. In fact, that’s what we recommend.”

Sorry, TVFF – sounds like the bahn mi trend isn’t dead quite yet.

Since it’s safe to say Ma Peche will be packed to the brim every lunch hour for the next, oh, five years or so, over at Oyster we’re looking at a few alternative spots to grab lunch in this just-south-of-Central-Park slice of Midtown.

(Photo: Food in Mouth)

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