Ramping Up for a Season of Gush

Picture me with my arms stretched out, my fingers in jazz-hands positioning, and gushing about lily pad perfect bibb lettuce, three feet tall scallion stalks and a fresh loaf of spelt bread. It’s farmers’ market season, boys, girls and those who identify otherwise.

It’s ON.

It’s so on that I actually openly gush to the vendors. When I’m stammering half out loud, half to my market friend westcoast and, and well, if there three halves, half in my head, about how I’m just so very excited to be outside, browsing fresh produce and even fresher mozzarella cheese. How is it possible that the creamy white pillows resting in water can be called the same name as the shredded, plastic bag dwelling yellow cheese? Tell me, because fucks if I know. Or the cheese producer that I asked as I closed my eyes and let his version of motz float down my throat.

My first visit to the Silver Spring market yielded my first go at ramps. They are part of the onion family, look more like scallions than regular onions, but are tiny and leafy and expensive. Of course westcoast and I bought three bundles. After the market he came over and we scrambled together sauteed ramps in my newly purchased European-style butter, and scrambled in farm fresh eggs and feta. And I think chives too. I don’t know. After my high from the market my hangover took over and the details of the cooking are sketchy.

But I still had a bundle of ramps left a week later, and with wilting on its way, I had to act quick…

Lox and Swiss Chard Omelet with Ramp Yogurt Sauce

I’m no omelet expert. You can follow my sort-of directions here, if you’d like. But if you’ve mastered your own, or even a proper, technique than go for it.

The fillings are from previous meals. I sauteed the swiss chard with garlic in olive oil and then covered it, stirring occasionally, for under 10 minutes. I chopped up the leftovers for easier breakfast eating. I also diced the lox, about a slice and a half.

The ramp yogurt sauce was from the chard meal (originally served with pan seared flounder and Israeli couscous) and was inspired by this Bon App recipe. For the sauce, I sauteed the ramps – first the bulbs, and then the leaves, in oil and, when softened, I threw that in a mini food processor. Also in the processor: toasted pine nuts, lemon juice, lemon zest, oil, salt and pepper. After blending, I stirred it into my farmers’ market 1% yogurt. I’ve tried, and learned, that I do not like the texture of blended yogurt for sauces. It becomes too thin and defeats the reason you wanted a yogurt sauce to begin with – a thick, creamy texture. So that’s why I put the yogurt in after the blending.

So with all that prepped, I used my farmers’ market eggs – and holy crap are the yolks so vividly hued – and then stuffed the chard and fish into the middle. I then slathered the top of the omelet with the ramp yogurt sauce.