Getting a Chip Off My Shoulder

Posted on February 29th, 2008 in Reviews: NY, esEd/Op-Ed, Appetizers, Hispanic, Trends, NYC by BS

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Eating out Mexican is one of the few true values in New York’s getting-even-more-ridiculous dining scene. Every borough has cheap, genuine, hole-in-the-wall spots like Tulcingo Del Valle in the neighborhood I grew up in.

That’s why I’m supremely disturbed by the emergence of quasi-upscale Mexican restaurants. I’m not saying Mexican people aren’t allowed to be fancy, but um…I still want the cheap, giant portions, of flavorful food. I mean, that’s half the point, right? No one has ever decided on Mexican dinner because they’re not especially hungry. And this fancified Mexcian food scene has brought a truly unwelcome development: chips and salsa that must be paid for. In money. #$!%@!

This will not stand.

Everyone in my new hood, Fort Greene, talks about two Mexican joints: Pequena and Bonita. I’ve eaten at both of these now and they serve decent, if not exciting food that falls short in three crucial aspects:

- Small portions

- Lack of spice

- Served by white people

Basically, everything a Mexican restaurant should not be. Seriously, is this Brooklyn or Kansas? What’s going on here?

But here’s the kicker: both places CHARGE for chips and salsa. This is just untenable. Free chips and salsa is like a golden rule of eating out. It’s half the reason I usually choose Mexican. It is just expected, OK? If I walk into a Mexican restaurant, and don’t get that basket and bowl placed in front of me without laying down an extra $4.50, well, I think you get the point - I won’t be happy. Frank Bruni says an empty wine glass is his version of restaurant hell, well no free chips and salsa is mine.

So I recently ate at a well-reviewed Mexican place in SoHo called Cafe el Portal. This place was pretty cool - teeny underground restaurant, genuine menu, Mexican-owned and operated. Although a little overpriced, it had some crazy dishes I could get behind, like a chile relleno covered in pomegranate seeds. While this inventive menu distracted me for two to three minutes after sitting down, I soon noticed something off. There was just a certain lack of greasiness on my hands and spiciness in my mouth.

Shake Shack it Like a Polaroid Picture

Posted on December 28th, 2007 in Reviews: NY, Snack Time, Cheese, Spuds, Drinks by BS

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Many apologies to all my Beyonces and Lucy Lius who are sick of reading about this obsessively over-chronicled burger stand, but as an NYC-based food blogger, I am contractually obliged to write about Shake Shack at least once per calendar year. Seeing as how it is December 28th, here goes. The following is an on-the-record gchat with our celebro-food-photog Brian:

Brian: hey, want to meet for cheese fries before the show?

BS: it’s open all year now?

Brian: YEAH!

BS: nice…yeah i’m in…who i am kidding that i will get anything else done today

Brian: haha
we’re dating
dinner and a show

BS: cheapest date ever!

Brian: lets blog it!

BS: oh absolutely

Brian: haha

BS: shakeshake in december is def newsworthy

Brian: bring your camera

BS: done

Brian: awesome

BS: i have a question…am I allowed to get a milkshake or is that too crazy?

***

Reason Number 123,549 why I would rather eat in New York than anywhere else. You can order a black-and-white milkshake at an outdoor cafe on a 30-degree day and no one so much as bats an eye.

Shake Shack in New York

First Bites in Brooklyn

Posted on November 1st, 2007 in Reviews: NY, Fast Food, Bacon, Red Meat by BS

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I took a break from moving and unpacking last night to take a walk and explore the local Ft. Greene food scene, making my first stop at 67 Burger, which opened late last year. It’s another casual, “step above fast-food” burger joint, offering made-to-orders. They drew me in with their signature 67 Burger, which is served with a creamy blue cheese spread and bacon. As you can see above, this is not one of those bacon burgers with a couple of slices of half-broiled bacon that get lost in the mix, but rather the kind where you pile on the pig like there’s no tomorrow.

The burger itself is decent, if not revelatory. Wow I don’t even know what that means, please excuse me trying to be Frank Bruni for a second. Anyway, decent patty, although I must issue the common complaint that my “rare” burger had not a drop of red. The real draw here are the toppings - you can load your bun up with foodie ingredients like roasted red peppers, crispy arthichokes, olive tapenade, and red wine pickled onions. The only drawback it they charge per item, so this can add up to a pricey burger. Skinny fries on the side are perfectly golden and crispy; curly fries even better. Oh, and there are salads for all you whackos.

Verdict: Not going to put Shake Shack out of business, or cause any problems for the rapidly expanding Five Guys empire, but a solid neighborhood standby.

67 Burger
67 Lafayette Street
Ft. Greene, Brooklyn
718.797.7150

67 Burger in Brooklyn

Xai Xai

Posted on October 26th, 2007 in Eaters Without Borders, Reviews: NY, Not Sober, Africa, Drinks, Trends, Red Meat by BS

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Not to call myself a trendsetter or anything, but South Africa is so the next culinary fixation. Joining Madiba in Clinton Hill and Shebeen on Mott Street, NYC’s first South African wine bar, Xai Xai, opened in Hell’s Kitchen earlier this month. So I stopped in this week with endless simmer’s erstwhile mac-n-cheese expert, el, who was in town for some sort of conference, about mac-n-cheese I presume.

Despite the confusing name (Xai Xai, pronounced shy-shy, is a beach town in neighboring Mozambique), this laid-back spot is genuinely South African, complete with a chilled-out endless summer vibe, a lekker, straight-from-SA staff, and of course, a lengthy list of wines from Stellenbosch, (SA’s Napa). There are about a dozen different varieties of pinotage (a red wine made from a South African grape), and we had an especially tasty Anvil Road merlot-pinotage blend. Each glass of wine is served in a mini-decanter, a healthy portion for seven to twelve bucks.

Xai Xai also has a small plate menu, and while there is sadly no bunny chow, there’s plenty of biltong, South Africa’s famed cured meat snack. The biltong I encountered in South Africa was usually an incredibly dry, unappealing beef-jerky variation, but Xai Xai’s version is a thinly-sliced, salty product that goes nicely with their sample platter, which is really just an antipasti plate loaded with tasty meats and cheeses alongside some British-style meatpies, another South African staple.

Xai Xai
365 W. 51st Street
212.541.9241
www.xaixaiwinebar.com

More in Hell’s Kitchen: Leon Bakery, Tulcingo Del Valle

Photo: Cape of Good Hope, by me…why am I not there right now?

Xai Xai in New York

How to Eat Australian

Posted on September 7th, 2007 in Reviews: NY, Salad, Eggs by BS

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On my lunch break earlier this week in the Garment District (unfortunately I find myself having to work a few days a week to support this blog lifestyle) I freaked out about the Midtown business crowds and dodged into a friendly-looking pub showing the Serbian Russian U.S. Open.

I assumed this was just the 173,459th Irish pub in the area, but was surprised when the waitress greeted me with an adorable Aussie accent and informed me this was the opening day of The Australian.

Oftentimes I find new places that try to replicate the classic pub vibe feel a little off because they’re just too new and clean, but this homey, brick-walled bar does a good job of creating a lived-in, welcoming feel in a brand new space.

There’s no kitschy down-under vibe here and you won’t find any kangaroo burgers or bloomin’ onions. Although they do have a Battered Sav, which seems to be a fantastic Australian take on the corn dog. I’m clearly interested, but I think if I tried that for lunch there is no way I would make it back to work without falling asleep.

There are also burgers and the like, but The Australian boasts more than an average sports bar menu, clearly aiming for a more foodie-fied set. I opted for the amazingly inventive chicken caesar salad - which comes with not only bacon - but also a poached egg topped with wasabi sauce, leaving the bottom of the salad covered in runny yolk and a spicy kick. I know, not everyone’s cup of tea, but I wanted to lick the bowl clean.

I’ll def be heading back again soon - a steady laid-back lunch option to escape the Midtown craziness.

20 West 38th Street (B/w 5th and 6th Aves)

212.869.8601

Don’t forget to check out our other New York restaurant reviews and the rest of Endless Simmer.

Leon Bakery

Posted on September 3rd, 2007 in Reviews: NY, Hispanic, Spicy by BS

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E-double’s posts about eating in Mexico inspired me to write a little more about eating in little mexico, a.k.a. Manhattan.

Hell’s Kitchen’s Leon Bakery is a tiny neighborhood secret - an increasingly rare statement in a town over-saturated with hyperactive restaurant bloggers constantly reporting news of venues that are rumored to be applying for liquor licenses in 2012.

Leon Bakery displays an impressive array of genuine Mexican cookies and pastries, but the real finds are towards the back - tasty lunch offerings that beat the hell out of Chipotle. Their fresh and fluffy corn tamales are unquestionably the finest you can get North of the Rio Grande, while my fav are the crispy sopes (above) - thick corn tortillas with raised edges, filled with refried beans, queso blanco and a paste made from spicy green chiles.

There’s always a bit of a mystery as the heat of the chiles varies day-to-day and at times the spiciness can kick your ass. The prices also seem to vary day-to-day, at least for gringo customers - but at either a buck or a buck and a half each, you won’t find a better deal without heading to Oaxaca.

Leon Bakery

695 Ninth Ave, 212.489.6677

Leon Bakery in New York

Tintol Tapas Bar

Posted on August 6th, 2007 in Reviews: NY, Appetizers, Trends, Spuds, Fish by BS

Spanish Tapas joints have become commonplace enough in America that the trendiness factor is pretty much completely worn out. Enter Portuguese Tapas…ooh, pretty edgy, right?

The narrow, low-key bar at Tintol is out of place on a gaudy block just East of Times Square, and the restaurant is a welcome addition to an area not known for originality in eating establishments.

Tintol does offer some of the favorites among traditional Spanish Tapas, including lightly-breaded Croquetas and perfect Papas Bravas (golden fried potatoes loaded with a spicy paprika kick). The menu also includes more specifically Portuguese specialities such as grilled sardines (fresh and light fish that I am now aware can be far, far tastier than the oily, canned varieties - they’re second from the top above); and Almondegas (ground lamb meat balls stewed with diced vegetables).

For those seeking lighter fare, there are healthy servings of Serrano Ham, cheese and olives, but this isn’t the type of Tapas place that leaves you wondering when the main course is coming; the portions are big enough that two to three plates per person will leave you stuffed.

The Tapas are supplemented by a lengthy list of reds, whites and sherries, and the dessert menu features Pudim Albade de Perisco, a super-rich and delicious Portugese take on flan.

All in all, I’m in favor of Portuguese Tapas. Get ‘em now before they’re trendy.

155 W. 46th Street, 212.354.3838

UPDATE: Tintol is moving on up….

Photo: Tintol

Tres Gringos

Posted on July 7th, 2007 in Reviews: NY, Hispanic by BS

Building on PoM’s outstanding post on Dos Gringos, tres gringos was the scene the other night when my dad and bro took me out for a genuine Mexican birthday.

Now, while much of this blog has focused on eating out in the District, this particular ES-er recently graduated from D.C. and moved back to New York, so expect to see some reviews of NYC destinations as well.

The neighborhood I grew up in, Hell’s Kitchen, was once the domain of streetwalkers, porn palaces and seedy strip clubs, but is now mostly home to yuppie restaurants, fancy bars, and upscale strip clubs. Fortunately, there are still a few ethnic hole-in-the-walls remaining, like Mexican joint Tulcingo Del Valle. (full review after the jump)